Why does Dr. Ellis apply tretinoin around her lips and ears?
She applies tretinoin to those often-neglected areas to correct and prevent sun damage and vertical lip lines—areas patients commonly miss despite using retinoids on face and chest.
Video Summary
Apply tretinoin deliberately to often-missed zones (around the lips and ears) to prevent lines and sun damage.
Use topical minoxidil off-label for eyebrow regrowth and as a nighttime aid for nails; time applications to avoid transfer.
Do a gentle weekly full-body chemical peel (high-% AHA blend) post-shower to improve texture and help conditions like keratosis pilaris.
Shampoo with your head flipped and double-cleanse the scalp to better remove buildup and support scalp health.
Apply sunscreen in two layers (about a 1/4 teaspoon for the face) for more even, effective coverage that reaches tricky spots like the hairline and eyesockets/margins of the face.
She applies tretinoin to those often-neglected areas to correct and prevent sun damage and vertical lip lines—areas patients commonly miss despite using retinoids on face and chest.
Yes; minoxidil is used off-label on eyebrows (with supporting clinical papers) and she also applies it to nails at night—timing applications to avoid undesired hair growth from transfer.
She does a gentle full-body chemical peel weekly using a high-percentage AHA blend to smooth texture, brighten skin, help conditions like keratosis pilaris, and support barrier strength.
She shampoos with her head flipped upside down and sometimes double-cleanses to lift hair off the scalp, allowing shampoo to penetrate and remove product, oil, and buildup that can cause dandruff or scalp issues.
Collagen banking refers to regularly stimulating collagen now—via topical retinoids, sunscreen, antioxidants, and periodic in-office treatments (microneedling/Clear + Brilliant)—to maintain collagen stores rather than rebuild large losses later.
"These are not the standard beauty tips that you've heard a thousand times, but they work really well."
"I apply my topical tretinoin very carefully around my lips and ears."
"Minoxidil is the only FDA-approved topical for scalp hair regrowth."
"I do a full body chemical peel every single week without fail."
"You get a very comprehensive exfoliating experience."
Dr. Sam Ellis emphasizes the efficacy of body exfoliation using a product containing 15% glycolic acid, which is one of the strongest alpha hydroxy acids, complemented by phytic, malic, lactic, and mandelic acids. These ingredients not only help remove dead skin cells, creating a smoother texture, but also draw moisture to the skin surface and stimulate collagen production.
To incorporate this into a skincare routine, she recommends using it weekly post-shower. After towel drying, she applies the exfoliant generously from the neck down, paying special attention to areas prone to dead skin build-up, like elbows, knees, and feet.
A key benefit of this peel is that it doesn't require rinsing off; it can be followed by body lotion after a few minutes, which is especially helpful for conditions like keratosis pilaris, or "chicken skin".
Regular exfoliation has been personally rewarding for Dr. Ellis, as reflected in compliments about the softness of her skin.
"Don't be afraid to flip that head over."
Dr. Ellis introduces an unconventional method for shampooing hair: she does so with her head flipped upside down. This technique aids in removing residue and build-up from the scalp, which often accumulates due to hair products, oil, dirt, and sweat.
She stresses the importance of shampoo as a scalp cleanser rather than just for the hair itself. When the hair is lifted off the scalp, shampoo can penetrate better, which is vital for preventing common scalp issues like dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis.
Adding to her routine, she practices double cleansing. The first wash lifts grime, and if her hair feels particularly dirty, a second application of shampoo ensures thorough cleansing. Her current focus on hair loss treatment includes using specific shampoos, such as her preferred Mielle Full Follicle Shampoo.
"Applying sunscreen in two layers allows for more precision."
For optimal sun protection, Dr. Ellis advocates applying sunscreen in two separate layers. This method helps achieve the effective coverage needed to reach the SPF protection indicated on the label.
A common misconception is that people often don't apply enough Sunscreen; she recommends about a quarter teaspoon for facial coverage. By applying in two stages, starting with a smaller amount, she finds she can apply more evenly—particularly around sensitive areas like the eyes and hairline.
This two-layer technique also helps in ensuring that gaps in coverage are filled, promoting more consistent protection against UV rays.
"Your skin's collagen production peaks in your mid-20s."
Dr. Ellis discusses the importance of collagen banking, which involves treatments targeting collagen production. She mentions that collagen levels start to decline significantly after the mid-20s, accelerating post-menopause.
While lifestyle factors like topical retinoids, SPF, and antioxidants can help slow collagen loss, in-office treatments are suggested to effectively stimulate collagen production.
The idea of collagen banking is crucial for long-term skin health and may involve professional treatments, which can vary in accessibility based on individual circumstances.
"I tend to do these treatments a few times a year, and I really consider them little skin nudges to help build up my collagen stores."
Dr. Sam Ellis emphasizes the necessity of regular skin treatments to maintain collagen levels, particularly as one ages. She prefers procedures with minimal downtime, often opting for interventions that require only one to two days of recovery.
Instead of intense, infrequent treatments, Dr. Ellis promotes smaller, more frequent procedures to gently stimulate collagen production, which she refers to as the "collagen treadmill."
The choice of procedure often depends on individual patient preferences and their comfort with different treatment intensities and downtimes. Some patients prefer major interventions just once a year, while others benefit from frequent, less invasive treatments.
"Microneedling involves tiny little needles that are sterile. This is not painful because you're numb, and it stimulates a very controlled wound healing response."
Dr. Ellis performs microneedling and Clear + Brilliant treatments most frequently for herself. Microneedling uses tiny sterile needles that create controlled micro-injuries in the skin, promoting healing and collagen production without significant discomfort due to numbing.
Clear + Brilliant, known as "baby Fraxel," is a fractional laser treatment that similarly stimulates a wound healing response, creating microscopic treatment zones within the skin. This method not only enhances skin resilience but also helps address issues like melasma and pigmentation.
Dr. Ellis believes that maintaining collagen is easier than rebuilding it, advising patients concerned about premature aging to adopt consistent treatment practices to keep their skin healthy and youthful as they age.